My 951 was stripped and repainted by 427 Auto Collision, near Kipling on Evans Ave. I had some minor work done on my 997 by Dayton Autobody, next door to Jay Lloyd’s shop, near Islington subway. Both are professional treated me well. Last year, at Yorkville Exotics, John D’Alessandro stopped to chat. He is one on the owners of 427 Collision and he said they had just bought one of the auto body event sponsors, I think named Central or Downtown Collision. Phil D would know. They would be closer to you.
Well according to me, they mess up fisrt time, so I do not want to pay again for their mistake…Charging me for a part they broke and did not change when they could…
Can I start the car with halg the part missing or may I damage the engine.
To tow the car, I have to get the car out of the garage..
I’m afraid to break something more….
Without a proper speed reference sensor signal, the DME relay keeps dropping out. Without fuel and ignition yes, the car does not run very well.
Why is there air in the system? I will guess because they removed the upper coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head to the heater core in order to access the upper bell housing bolt easier. Doing this causes you to lose coolant and the resultant air in the system.
Also, when the ground for the sensors at the back of the engine block is loose, you get poor running as well as erratic gauges.
If your Porsche shop is unaware of these items, then perhaps they are not familiar with the 4 cylinder water cooled cars and you may wish to get your vehicle serviced else where.
Well, it depends. The sensor bracket is bolted to the back of the block and then the bell housing is put on after the sensor depth is set using a feeler gauge off of the reluctor ring on the flywheel…. are you supposed to remove everything to get at the bracket? Yes…. Do you have to?… Depends…
If it was removed when the clutch was done, and if the hardware is not seized, and if the bracket is not seized to the split dowel on the back of the block (aluminum on a spring steel dowel so it often corrodes), then you are lucky and can change it with the engine and transmission in the car. However if you are unlucky, then everything has to come out to get access to the bracket so it can be changed. If some of that epoxy got into the allen head bolts that hold it on the block, it will all have to come out. The amount of space to work back there is literally inches. Sometimes lowering the engine and front crossmember a few inches with everything still connected allows for enough room to work on it and get it apart. Resetting sensor height after the fact can be done with shims used as a 0.8mm depth spacer temporarily glued to the bottom of the sensor. Once height of the bracket is adjusted, this must then be removed.
Any decent Porsche shop will know how to do this work. Just eluding to what you may be facing. Good luck!
BTW, none of this has anything to do with your fans or temperature gauge. That problem is because you also have a poor ground at the end of your engine block (right near that sensor bracket). It is the smaller brown wire. You also more than likely have an air lock. Turn the heater to full HEAT while car idles and bleed at the bleeder fitting at the top front of the cylinder head with the radiator cap OFF. When all the air is out of the system, your fluid level will no longer change with the cap off. This you can do yourself since the shop did not do it for you. And while at it, ensure that you have the PROPER coolant in your car! It should be Phosphate and Silicate free. If it is green, it is the WRONG coolant!
The reference sensor on the S2 at the flywheel is the speed reference sensor. This is for engine timing. I’m surprised it would run with this not located properly. The engine timing (TDC) is done by the sensor at the camshaft using a metal ring attached to the exhaust camshaft. I will suspect that your shop is not experience at working on the 4 cylinder water cooled cars. Everyone that is knows that the reference sensors project through a hole in the bell housing and MUST be removed before removing the housing to access the clutch. If they are not removed you either break the sensor or the sensor bracket. Looks like this is what happened to you as evidenced by the glue in your photo on the broken pieces. As a minimum, they should have replaced that sensor bracket for you (they are cheap) or TIG welded it together. Now the work must be repeated again to place the new bracket in there.
Nope, I found half the part holding the reference sensor on top of the transmssion housing, so the sensor ir free..
Someone put some glue to hold the 2 parts When we left Charlevoix before the clutch failure, the car was running perfectly well at normal temperature, only when the car came back after the clutch installation, it starts was running bad. I had to take the 30 so the car would not stall at traffic light, and barely made it home last week on Thursday
I will not name the shop, but it is in Montreal…
I picked up my new (to me) ’06 997 C4S Cab just this April at Pfaff.
They detailed it for me prior to pick up (waxed and polished exterior and even cleaned, repaired, treated the full leather interior). Pfaff did a fantastic job!
Mike Clubine, owner of Michelangelo’s, is the best for me. I was introduced to him by Downtown Fine Cars (that long ago)He has looked after my GT3 and ClubCoupe with great success.
He can arrange for pick-up and delivery. Call his wife, Rhonda, on 416 964 5600.
The address is
Michelangelos Auto Salon Inc.
229 Sterling Rd.
Toronto, ON M6R 2B2
bestdetailer at hotmail.com